do NOT use your finger to spread Gorilla Glue. it does NOT wash off with water and makes your whole hand sticky. WHY did no one warn me about this?

ok, wasn't really your responsibility, but i thought i would pass my hard-earned knowledge along.

yes, this is indeed how i learn all that exciting information i pass along. *sigh*

~tigs (still trying to get the sticky stuff off her fingers)

I've found Gorilla glue takes forever to dry but superglue on the other hand has had my fingers glued together many times

superglue on the other hand has had my fingers glued together many times

ACETONE! Or fingernail polish that has acetone in it. They should help get the superglue off. I haven't found any other way to get it off, other than time, and slowly picking it off.

Interesting. My bottle states that excess glue can be cleaned up with a damp cloth.

Remember when school tests had questions similar to this:

Winnie the Pooh is to Honey as Tiggermama is to ________.

From the Gorilla Glue website:

"To remove Gorilla Super Glue from your skin, soak the bonded area in warm soapy water or acetone. The key is to be patient and NEVER pull the area apart.

Gently wiggle the area to allow the water or acetone to penetrate the bond. After soaking, the adhesive should come off easily. Keep in mind acetone can strip your skin of oils, so apply moisturizer after removal."

3 Blind Mice (who always uses acetone)

yes, well, MY bottle said the same thing - damp cloth, soapy water, etc. So, AFTER applying gorilla glue to the back of said stamp with left index finger, and then to foam backing, i carefully went to sink to wash up with hot soapy water. It (said glue) started on the tip of left index finger. It is now a thin dried layer on left index finger, palm of left hand, back of right index finger and right hand, base of right thumb.

*sigh* the Gorilla Glue people LIE! they LIE like a RUG!!! i am using a stick to spread the goo from now on! Trust me on this one. . .

~tigs, who is taking her now dried and non-sticky self to bed (because she can't find the acetone she had bought to try transfers. . .)

*snicker* Well you won't lose your keys or anything else you can lay your hands on.

Is this sticky stamp for an upcoming event, perhaps? :D

First, was it the white gorilla glue, or the amber colored glue? If you had asked me (hint, hint), I could've warned you. Being a carpenter, I use gorilla glue all the time. The amber colored glue is polyurethane based, and if you get it on you, fuggedaboudit. They say use paint thinner, but I prefer to just let it finally come off on its own. The white will come off with soap and water, but you have to get to it soon enough - don't forget, your body heat helps to cure the glue faster than it normally would.

And both are designed to dry slowly - the slower the cure, the better the bond. Sure, you have to wait, but that's the name of the game.

Hey, I'm used to glues, so I don't worry about it leaving its mark on me - it'll go away eventually. I havta say, though, I've never had to worry about it staying sticky - I either get it off of me, or it dries and stays stuck for a while.

The amber colored glue is polyurethane based, and if you get it on you, fuggedaboudit. They say use paint thinner, but I prefer to just let it finally come off on its own.

It might be usable as a bandage.

Maybe the white, but the poly stuff acts more like a stain when its on your hands, attracting dirt like a magnet til it dries - no film from it that you can see - just looks like you don't like to wash your hands - ever. Plus, the poly stuff expands - in theory it expands into the pores of wood, and you're only supposed to use a tiny amount. Not sure how it would work with rubber or foam.

Were you talking about the super glue tigs? I forgot they make that too, but why on earth would you want to use your finger on super glue? Yuck! I haven't used super glue in years - I use 2-part epoxies now when I need something like that. But again, not something I'd put on my fingers...

(still trying to get the sticky stuff off her fingers)

Blech! This icky, stick stuff is only fit for heffalumps and woozles!

Romana

Might try contact cement. Works great and it has a brush attatched to the lid so you don't have to use your fingers. (o: Never have liked Gorilla Glue.

it is for an upcoming event. . . an event coming up very soon. . . a SHORT event. . . an event that's SHORT in STATURE. . .

*snort, chuckle*

~tigs, who is now working with Aileen's Tacky Glue on a different project for said event

why yes, it was the amber colored, polyurethane-baed stuff. Mr. Umbrella tells me later, "i saw you heading for the sink and thought,' that's not gonna work. i shoulda told you."

Men! Sheesh! i now have a very pretty shiny right hand for work today. Luckily, my clients are used to me being a klutz, and hearing about my adventures.

~tigs

Never have liked Gorilla Glue.

Love Gorilla Glue -- on wood. In fact, I have a pair of stereo speakers with oak cabinets I designed and built myself using Gorilla Glue. IMHO, the stuff just can't be beat for wood. I'd never use it on rubber, though.

Love Gorilla Glue -- on wood. IMHO, the stuff just can't be beat for wood.

Couldn't agree more, K!

Yup - that explains it. Oil-based poly just ignores soap and water. You'll probably still be seeing it for a day or two. But at least it wasn't the super glue!

Ok now, little guinea pig, you'll have to tell us how well it glued your stamp. Did it bubble out all over the place? That's the stuff you want to use only a tiny amount of. Let us know how it came out - if it works well, that would be a good thing to know. And for future reference:

Orginal amber-colored Gorilla glue: clean with paint thinner/mineral spirits.
White carpenter's Gorilla glue: clean with soap and water
Super glue: Acetone

Acetone and paint thinner are two very different solvents, as the super glue vs the amber stuff are as well.

ok, so i've been using the amber Gorilla Glue to stick my stamps to their foam backings since i started. read about it here on the boards. Why? well, since i found a series in NY state that had used contact cement and they were all sliding off their backings after being exposed to moisture over the long haul, and i didn't want that to happen, i took the advice i found and all of my stamps have held up well.

The process goes like this:
1. Get a foam door knocker from a craft store (they're thicker). i dont' use wood because it warps in boxes around here over the winter.

2. cut out the stamp from its medium.

3. spread a thin THIN layer of Gorilla Glue on the back (note to all after yesterday: NEVER use your finger, ALWAYS use a popsicle stick or toothpick as i had been doing)

4. stick stamp to foam door handle. Weight down and leave it alone for 24 hours. No, it doesn't bubble out all over the place if you only use a thin layer. Yes it does if you use too much.

5. When it's dry, cut out your stamp with an exacto knife. Voila!

Does it look like a professionally mounted Kirbert stamp? No. On the other hand, it will survive a New England winter without warping or coming apart. Learned all this from the friend who taught me to box. . .

~tigs the crafty person today (whose fingers still look unwashed and shiny)

that had used contact cement and they were all sliding off their backings after being exposed to moisture

Does anyone know whether this happens if you use the "permanent" method of rubber cement (i.e., apply to both items, let dry, then attach).

I'd love to use rubber cement instead of super glue. Super glue has the unfortunate problem that if you use about half the container, the rest becomes a brick. And they don't really give the stuff away.

[._.]

I have used Gorilla Glue very successfully on the rubber. I use it to glue the stamp to a foam back. I use it sparingly and then it doesn't bubble up, and smear it ever so carefully with a popsicle stick as thin as possible. I also tend to score the back of my stamp with a gouge before applying the glue. If you get the Gorilla Glue on the face of the stamp it makes it very shinny and changes the properties for inking.

My family was quite amused when I gorilla glued my lips shut. (OK, to be accurate, half shut.) Now I can only talk out of ONE side of my mouth and will never get elected.

Does anyone know whether this happens if you use the "permanent" method of rubber cement (i.e., apply to both items, let dry, then attach).

There are two similar looking products; Rubber Cement and Contact Cement. Rubber cement is probably what a previous boxer was talking about when she said that she found that it slides all over the place. The label even states that the product will soften or dissolve over time. Contact cement is the kind you put on both surfaces, wait 20 minutes and then stick them together. I've always used Contact cement for backing my stamps and it WILL NEVER come apart and I mean ever, even one second after you stick both sides together. I live in NH so that's a pretty good test of the elements. My oldest plant has been out there for six years with no problems.

The reason I know this is because I bought and used Rubber cement accidentally and couldn't figure out why I could adjust the foam backing freely after sticking the two sides together.

This stuff has very toxic fumes though, be careful not to "huff."

Thanks for the information! I have a bottle of contact cement around here somewhere that I can try the next time I mount a stamp.

Contact cement is the kind you put on both surfaces, wait 20 minutes and then stick them together.

You can do that with rubber cement too. It makes the bond more permanent; you can't re-position the two pieces after you've made a contact this way. A lot of brands don't give you these directions on the bottle, they only give the semi-permanent removable directions.

[._.]

There are two similar looking products; Rubber Cement and Contact Cement. This stuff has very toxic fumes though, be careful not to "huff."

Very true, JESS. Contact cement is what they use for formica countertops, and if its done right, they don't come undone. And the fumes are very potent! They do make a water-based contact cement these days, which is far less fumy, but in my experience, it does not hold up anywhere near as well. With the possibility of dampness in our neck of the woods, it probably wouldn't hold up as well anyway.

I'm curious as to how the poly gorilla glue will do over a long period of time - it might make sense to use the solvent based contact cement over the poly glue, only because even cured, contact cement still remains slightly "rubbery", whereas the poly glue becomes solid. The bond of poly glue for wood, as Kirbert said, is fantastic. Perhaps both will hold up just as well.

I made a note of this page, tigs! ;)

I use a spray can of headliner adhesive. I think I read about it in Kirbert's tutorials. It has worked great so far (about a year now) here in Texas. I haven't gone back to check all my boxes in that time but I have seen enough to know it is holding up well in 110 degree heat and with boxes in high humidity locations. I also used it on my sig stamp with no issues noticed so far. I mount my stamps (pink stuff) onto 1/4" think sheet foam from Stampeaz and Michaels, no wood layer although I have thought about adding 1/4" plywood with the foam layer in between.

Just a word to the wise - although in TX it might be different, but plywood probably isn't the best option - it'll delaminate over time if its out in the weather. Our weather being cooler and more damp it definately is not a good idea, but the heat might affect it down there - not sure. A thin piece of hardwood would be better, or even a 1/4 thick piece of acrylic. Or, just stick with the foam - that's what alot of the people up our way do, and so far so good...

So far I have only used plywood on my son's sig stamp. All my other stamps are foam-backed only. I have seen one boxer locally using ceramic/porcelain floor tile material.