A few months ago somebody told us that the way to make tiny white dots in our stamp images was to use the end of a straightened paper clip to just punch it. I soon found a really neat tool and added it to my carving kit, but haven't put it to much use.

Just the other day it got a workout, as I carved an image with a night sky and needed to put stars of various sizes all over the place. Then today I carved a stamp that needed just one white dot -- but it needed to be neatly circular, not ratty or uneven. It worked out so well for both jobs that I decided I must review this tool here.

The tool is actually a welder's tool. It's a little metal packet that opens up to reveal a selection of tiny serrated wires for cleaning out acetylene torch nozzles. It's got about 13 different size wires. The serration serves no purpose for anything in stamp carving other than to give you a good grip. The ends of the wires and neat and square, perfect for punching tiny holes. There's also a file in the packet.

I bought this tool many years ago when I took a few lessons in welding. I don't remember what it cost, but I recall it was next to nothing. Any place that carries welding equipment will have it, and I highly recommend it as a worthy addition to the stamp carver's arsenal.

A few months ago somebody told us that the way to make tiny white dots in our stamp images was to use the end of a straightened paper clip to just punch it.

Kirbert, you are so resourceful!

Someone else mentioned using the point of a mechanical pencil minus the "lead". . . I tried that since I had it on hand . . . worke like a charm. I pushed it into some Speedy-Stamp, all the way in, and it left a perfect dot.

I guess you never know what you can find to carve the right image. I also have a biopsy punch (doesn't everyone?) that cuts a perfect larger circle. We've only used it to carve a Swiss cheese cootie so far.

Mama Cache

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Someone else mentioned using the point of a mechanical pencil minus the "lead". . . I tried that since I had it on hand . . . worke like a charm.

I'm sure, but that would be huge compared to the size dots I'm talking about. The smallest wire in this acetylene torch cleaning tool is considerably smaller than a mechanical pencil lead, not to mention the little steel tube that surrounds one on the tip of the pencil.

I'd bet pretty much any steel wire or small tube will work if cut off square. The problem is finding a good selection of different gauge wires. I just think the acetylene torch cleaner is an especially handy and cost-effective way to obtain a good selection.

I use a tool made for working with clay. I don't know the name of the tool, but it has a long, sharp pointed needle like end with a wooden handle.

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I use a tool made for working with clay. I don't know the name of the tool, but it has a long, sharp pointed needle like end with a wooden handle.

I think that's called an awl. The impression that I get is that using the squared-end wires that I'm talking about results in a very clean, crisp hole, and if the wire is perfectly round then the hole is too. With pointed objects, though, you don't get a clean hole but rather a sort of depression. It kinda gives a more vague dot, like a slightly fuzzy white dot. Sometimes, of course, this is exactly what you want. I think you only need one such tool, because you can just vary how deeply you press it into the rubber to vary the size.

The 51-piece carving set from Big Lots includes several pointy tools that could be used in this manner.

Interestingly enough that's called a needle tool. You can find them at Hobby Lobby and maybe Micheals.

Shiloh

i was going to say the same, definitely an awl. i have one for book making purposes, but never thought to use it for carving. now i just have to try it out.