Glue to a backing works quite well, I have done this several times with ancient eraser stamps. I like to use an acrylic (plexiglass) backing for a broken stamp as it does not flex very much, which helps to prevent a gap in the stamped image. Be careful if you also try to put glue in between the broken pieces, as the glue may ooze out on the face of the stamp!

I agree that in the case of a broken stamp (especially pink stuff) a firm backer works better than a softer one, like foam. Because as mentioned the flex will more than likely cause a slight gap in the image.

I had an old piece of Luan laying around that I used to use. Home Depot usually has a 'scraps' bin that you can grab stuff out of for almost nothing.

Also, rather than gluing it down, I use permanent double sided tape. I find it holds the two parts together better.

I have had luck gluing them to something firm but flexible like a plastic fake credit card that comes in the mail (it stands up to cold and hot weather too)

My sigi stamp is made of something I have no clue what it is. I think it is a piece of something someone gave me a very long time ago..........2007/8 maybe. It is old, so not sure if it was always a light gray or if it was off white. it is thicker than pink stuff. I am getting worried that it might break. I have been putting off backing it. Is this something to use or is there something better?

condo

Thanks to everyone who gave me suggestions and offers of materials to try! I ended up buying these cutting boards. I was able to cut them with my guillotine cutter and also punch holes in them with my Bind-It-All, so they're perfect for easy, waterproof logbook covers!

If you use a construction grade double-sided tape any semi-flexible backer should work, IMO. I have stamps that have been out for years that I taped to a piece of paneling. Semi-sturdy, easy to cut - works well.

A caveat though, if using the double-sided tape, make sure it covers the whole image, or backer.

thank you.

Especially when using the larger blades, I always remind myself to put my non-carving hand *behind* the cut when I'm holding the material.

This is great advice. I spent many years working in construction, with much experience as a finish carpenter. One of the most important safety protocols was to think about where the tool (chisel, saw, whatever) would end up if you slipped. Never put a body part in the path of a slipped tool!

Reflexes are almost never fast enough to prevent injury. A safer position might be more awkward but you learn to deal with it.

You know, I wondered. This angled desk is fairly new compared to my carving skills. I wondered. Seems like my light and magnifier keep getting closer and closer to my body on the table.

One of the things I keep searching for, is a flat desk to do work on. Yes, this one will flatten but as you can guess, it's full! Cleaning just makes me loose all the fun toys and work in progress. ;)

Slip Strop, if that is what it's called, is on it's way here. Arrival will be next week. Plus, Webfoot send me some wonderful new blades and rubber to practice on. Thank you Stampeaz for all the great items. :)

Guess what, guess what? It's all of it! No kidding. Tried new blade. That works much better but it's the angle in which I hold it. It's different. So I switched out handles. It's still different. Once I picked up the rubber instead of keeping it on the table, it work much, much better.

Thanks everyone. I think the problem is solved. Keep it away from my body. Keep the tools sharp and watch the angle of the number 5 blade. Carving is different that with the smaller one.

Yeeha!

What size blade do you use when carving 1/2 wide space or more? Not the edge. Flat in the middle of the image.

Those fake credit cards aren't actually very durable; they're basically cardboard. Instead, I suggest using a depleted gift card. They're just like a credit card -- very tough plastic -- but they don't have the raised letters like a credit card. And I seem to get lots of them for various reasons. I used to throw them away, but I've found so many uses for them I collect them now.

Instead of double-sided mounting tape, I suggest carpet tape:

https://www.homedepot.com/p/ROBERTS-1-7-8-in-x-75-ft-Roll-of-Max-Grip-Carpet-Installation-Tape-50-550/100658266

It's the sticky without the tape. You stick it down and then peel it off and it leaves the sticky behind. You then stick your stamp onto the backing and there's no cellophane in between.

Not exactly sure what "1/2 space" you mean, but to carve really small, fine places I use a .5 Staedtler gouge. They aren't available anymore, but you could have someone make a Speedball #1 gouge into a .5 for you-try asking Kirbert-I know there are a few others who do them for people, but not sure exactly who- maybe they will read this and chime in!

You mean 1/2 inch wide? For clearing large areas I use Speedball #4. Very handy tool. Just wish they made a narrower version. Pfiel makes narrower versions but gosh golly they are expensive.

When I'm carving a big chunk out of the middle of a piece and it's hard to maneuver a #5 blade inside that space, I like to use a Testor's knife. I take a cut around the outside of that space, angling in (so I don't undercut the printing surface) and then I angle the other way at a distance where I can make a V groove meeting the first cut. This takes the material away cleanly with maximum control for me. You don't have to go very deep - just enough so that the space won't get inked. Then, once I have done the outside parts of that space, I just repeat the V process with the Testor's knife (or, if it has opened the space up enough to make a #4 or #5 viable, I might switch to one of those) for the interior clean-up.

I tried to make that visual, so I hope it makes sense....

When you say a "Tester's knife", are you referring to an pointy Exacto knife? That I have used before but I tend to go too deep. Guess it just takes practice. ;)

For those asking, it's a wide space in the middle like Snoopy's face. Lots and lots of white space in the middle that has to come out. You only need an outline for Snoopy.

Thank you folks.

Yes, the Testor's knife is just a super skinny craft knife and an Exacto would work, too. It's just not quite as flexible. As for going too deep, that's the angle - lay your knife down a little flatter so that your angle of cut is more oblique and you aren't cutting as far into the block - you're cutting more under the surface, instead. Does that make sense?

Yes, it does. Thank you. I will be practicing. :)

The blades for Testor's hobby knives are made of thinner metal than X-Acto blades. As a result, the Testor's blades are a bit more flexible and perhaps more suitable for our purposes.

The third option, of course, is the wire knife that I developed. I basically make a cutting tool out of a piece of steel wire. The tip can be as tiny and flexible as you want, simply choose what gauge wire you start with. I normally use something about 0.8mm because it fits well in my handle.

You mean you earthlings don't use an Illudium Q-36 Space Modulating Laser!? That's crazy talk.

Wire knife! Cool idea. I'll give that a try. My last order from Stampeaz included a wire knife. Not sure on the gauge. I'll look.

PS, Hubby just sharpened an old, old knife we had hanging around the barn. It has a small blade and a handle that fits my hand well for control. Now, if I can just get the angle right, I may be able to do it. Thanks

Ok Life, clear the runway. I've got carving to do. ;)

I love your confidence!

Old overhead projecter sheets! Garage/estate sales. Also, thin, 3-pack plastic cutting mats at the dollar stores. Recycle spray painted gift/credit cards.

I have one of those, though not Disney. If you really like it, you might try Amazon for a variety of colors or designs. 🙂

I had a similar one. It was to heavy and I hated taking it off and on.

I have one, used it a couple times and now it stores odds and ends of yarn. I agree, it was very heavy and awkward to take on and off plus the legs dug into my back. Oh, and notice how the bag sits on the ground, not good to use in damp areas. Can you tell I was not impressed with mine?

WAY, WAY to much to bother with.