My 4yr old chromebook allows zooming in on any screen image by holding down "ctrl" and htting "+" in increments.

That makes the image bigger but not clearer. You're just blowing up a low-resolution copy of the photo. You need to select the "Large" to see the full-resolution version of the photo. If I could have gotten higher resolution yet I would have; I have trouble getting clear photos of things as small as gouge nibs.

That makes the image bigger but not clearer. You need to select the "Large" to see the full-resolution version of the photo.

Zooming in on the "Large" image even further by holding down the "ctrl" key and hitting the "+" key allows a closer look at the nib ranging in magnifications from 110% to 500%. Agreed that the edge resolution gets noticeably softer over 250% (magnifying over twice as large as the "Large" image), but it does allow a closer look at the nib to get a better appreciation of your sharpening angles, honing and adept skill.

You're just blowing up a low-resolution copy of the photo.

When the "Large" image is no longer an option (only "Normal") try holding down the "ctrl" key and hitting the "+" key. You can then zoom-in on the "Normal" (smaller) image in increments enlarging/magnifying it as large as the former "Large" image (and even greater magnification). I've been going back and forth comparing one of your current "Large" images (Rabby V Mods Photo Album) with a "Normal" image zooming-in (magnified 250%) without any significant image degradation when compared to the resolution of the current "Large" image.

If I could have gotten higher resolution yet I would have; I have trouble getting clear photos of things as small as gouge nibs.

Even if your camera's digital sensor was 20 MP and you used a Carl Zeiss Planar lens your closeup images are still converted to jpeg. What you NEED to do is get even CLOSER so we can really get a good look at the business end of the nibs. The following two macro close-ups (AQ Public Photo Album) were taken with my recently purchased $70 used Canon G10 (with battery and charger). In dedicated macro mode it allows focusing as close as 0.4" (1cm) to the subject. The two handheld (manual focus setting) photos in AQs Photo Album were shot at 15 MP, 4,416 x 3,312 pixels, ISO 80, f/8, 1/200 sec at a distance of approximately 1 inch. Then cropped even tighter (about 50% of original full frame) as seen in the Photo Album. The G10 is not a DSLR, but its dedicated macro mode does permit manual focusing. A feature which i found useful for 'critical focusing' at 1 inch from subject matter. The distance scale switches from feet to inches when focusing on subjects from 20 inches to as close as 0.04 of an inch (1cm) ... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XKmTPEjKcMI ... and... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nOybg4HSPvA

Photo Album entitled ... SPEEDBALL NIBS XPOSED (macro/closeups) ...
http://www.atlasquest.com/gallery/viewalbum.html?gAlbumId=4482

What you NEED to do is get even CLOSER so we can really get a good look at the business end of the nibs.

Yeah, I know it. I have three digital cameras: A Canon PowerShot A560 and a smartphone and a tablet. The smartphone and tablet are both 5MP cameras, the Canon is 7.1MP. The Canon also has mechanical focus and zoom. I've been using the Canon, on a stand with a 10-second delay, and in macro mode.

The problem is that it'll only focus so close, and it's not easy to tell just how close that is. If I set the camera too close, I get a photo that's obviously out of focus. So I have to set it farther away and be careful that it's focusing on the nib and not on something else in the field of view. If I zoom in, it focuses worse!

The best way I know to get really good close-up photos of tiny things is to lay them on a flatbed scanner. Years ago I had a flatbed scanner that did a wonderful job with car parts, you name it, but I gave that one away when I got a new printer with a scanner built in. This newer scanner is nowhere near as good for scanning 3D items; it loses focus not very far above the glass surface.

Now I have a brand new printer with a scanner. Haven't even tried it with 3D items yet. Perhaps I should give it a shot.

Of course, the Rabby tools are no longer in my hands. Perhaps someone in the tracker can get better photos of the Rabby V I modified as well as an unmodified one that Foraych will be including in the tracker.

Been watching a few of the Japanese/Hong Kong Youtubes for the first-time today and one soon realizes that the art of rubber stamp carving didn't originate in America. In several of the Youtubes only an Xacto knife is used while the other hand holds and rotates the stamp as it's being carved. Was the Asian technique of carving a rubber stamp with just a small razor sharp knife what got you hooked and so adept just using an Xacto knife?

After watching a few of those Youtubes (some with Charlie Chaplin like background music) it does seem that all one really needs is an Xacto knife, and a 'good' #1 gouge and #3 gouge.

The men and women carvers in this Youtube are sure having a Ton of FUN! ... it's enjoyable watching even if you can't understand a word they're saying. However, laughter is Universal in any language ... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5sVrnlc3bA8

I will be sure to snap some pics of both the modified and unmodified RABBY tools before the postal goes out.

I will be sure to snap some pics of both the modified and unmodified RABBY tools before the postal goes out.

THANKS!

What i found interesting after first having watched several other Japanese Youtubes yesterday was the use of only an Xacto knife. Then the above Youtube with all the carvers using what appeared to be just one gouge from beginning to end. After rewatching several times again this morning it appeared at times that they were definitely using a V gouge and at other times possibly a U gouge. The first impression was a wider "V" gouge for their carves from beginning to end (2:15 to 4:00 min) ~ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5sVrnlc3bA8

Interesting that some Japanese carvers apparently use only an Xacto knife; while others prefer using just a wider V gouge and others use a set of 3 tools. Caught a glimpse of a dark handled 3-set (knife and two gouges) on another Japanese Youtube.

Off topic I know but...I watched the video and what I get from it is this: assuming the show hosts have little or no experience in carving, for the most part they all did a pretty decent job. Not sure what tools or materials they were using. But what they all had was a good image (and a great transfer) to carve. 6 months ago I would have considered myself to be a frustrated beginner. A lot of that had to do with the tools and materials I was using, as opposed to just needing more practice. But I also wonder how many other frustrated beginner are frustrated simply because of what images they are trying to carve?

Interesting that some Japanese carvers apparently use only an Xacto knife; while others prefer using just a wider V gouge and others use a set of 3 tools.

That sounds like the discussion here about knife vs. blade carving.

I got started with an X-Acto because I had an X-Acto. I still think it's better for inside corners than a gouge, but it takes about 2-3X as long to carve a stamp.

Were they using X-Actos or boxcutters? The videos I've seen involved boxcutters.

I'm pretty sure that was a Rabby V that most of them were using. The expert was just using a hobby knife of some sort.

Interesting that some Japanese carvers apparently use only an Xacto knife; while others prefer using just a wider V gouge and others use a set of 3 tools.

That sounds like the discussion here about knife vs. blade carving.

Just an observation ... sorry! Imagine most all of the 15 participants are most interested in the V and U gouges; especially the modified V gouge.

The reason I posted that Japanese Youtube (as it relates to the thread) is because it appeared they were all using just a V gouge from the beginning to the completion of their carves. It's obvious from this and other threads that the V gouge is the most important gouge for the majority of rubber stamp carvers.

What was interesting with the Speedball #2 U gouge (see macro photo) is that some of the metal is ground away on the underside near the tip of the nib.http://www.atlasquest.com/images/gallery/13/90/139053lg.jpg

Someone take a close look to see if some metal has been ground away on the underside of the unmodified RABBY U gouge near the nib? Looking forward to seeing some closeup macro photos of the underside view of the RABBY modified V nib and unmodified U nib.

Yes, in the video you posted they were using gouged. However, in other videos of Japanese carvers they have used blades. They seem to not be United, as we're not united in what is the proper tool to use when carving. That was my point.

I'm also entertained by the carving videos. The shear joy they had carving stamps was contagious.

Were they using X-Actos or boxcutters? The videos I've seen involved boxcutters.

Three of the four Japaneses videos i first watched used only an X-acto knife and the other (knife video) used one of those mini box-cutters with the telescoping break-off knife blades ... similar to the extended mini boxcutter used by the lead carver in the RABBY video to cut-out just that portion of the transferred image from the larger stamp blank.

If you re-watch the video again the lead carver is also using a wider (blue) V gouge (2:18-2:54). All five carvers appear to be using the same (blue) gouge. A closeup of one of the (blue) gouges (2:57-3:01) has a "circular lll sticker" on the handle which i took to be the wider blue handle V gouge (not the narrow aqua handle V gouge with "circular lll sticker." The impression from that Japanese video is that the "blue V" gouge is a good all-around gouge for beginners.

My guess is that all of the carvers in that video have an artistic flair with good eye-hand coordination. It may have been a promotional video for RABBY and not the first stamp carved by the four men and women sitting at the table (two on each side of the lead carver).

Isn't your modified V gouge (aqua handle) in your photos the narrow RABBY V gouge?

PS: GREAT idea getting feedback from 15 accomplished carvers on the 3-set RABBY knife, U gouge and your modified V gouge =:)

Esty's CraftyJapan offers six different "chisel" (gouge) designs ... https://www.etsy.com/listing/84757767/rabby-eraser-carving-chisel-set-handmade (scroll down to photo) ... that are available in two different 3 set combinations (each $16.75). Click on the < at the far left of the photo to see a diagram of the "Rabby Carving Chisel Range" application and the name they give to each of the six chisel shapes.

Believe this is the Set-3 including Kirbert's modified narrow V gouge ...
https://img0.etsystatic.com/068/0/11224562/il_570xN.790641822_j2hf.jpg
1. Curve Seal-Engraving Type L Chisel (oblique bent red handle)
2. Circle Chisel (narrow U gouge yellow handle)
3. Triangle Chisel (delta small narrow V gouge aqua handle)

https://img0.etsystatic.com/065/0/11224562/il_570xN.790645128_k3sb.jpg
1. Curve Seal-Engraving Type S Chisel (oblique orange handle)
2. Circle Chisel (wide U gouge green handle)
3. Triangle Chisel (delta wider V gouge blue handle)

These chisel/gouges serve a dual purpose for both Chinese Chop Seal Chisel Carving and Rubber Stamp Gouge Carving ...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=POrr0XKzoBA

Believe this is the Set-3 including Kirbert's modified narrow V gouge ...
https://img0.etsystatic.com/068/0/11224562/il_570xN.790641822_j2hf.jpg
1. Curve Seal-Engraving Type L Chisel (oblique bent red handle)
2. Circle Chisel (narrow U gouge yellow handle)
3. Triangle Chisel (delta small narrow V gouge aqua handle)

Kirbert's RABBY tools arrived today and this sounds correct, with the Triangle Chisel modified quite nicely.

I had an old pre-transferred image on good Pink Stuff that I have taken all three tools to. So far, so good. The Triangle Chisel (V-shaped gouge) seems to drag a little bit through the material in comparison to the Staedtler reversed 1V I usually use, but using the RABBY tools the same way I use the Staedtler, I think the detail level will eventually be comparable. The Triangle Chisel has a broader width which I think hinders my rapid adjustment to it in comparison to the Staedtler. But having only played with these for an hour or so, the detail in the stamp seems decent. I have some OZ, SLQ, new Pink, Orange PZKut and some misc. mediums I will try these out on too :)

Thanks for sharing these Kirbert. I don't have the postal stamp images transferred to medium yet, but hope to have that soon and will get the postal pulled together for others to experience.

Also, Wry Me has offered to share the unmodified version of the Triangle Chisel with the postal tracker so it will be interesting to try this and compare it with Kirbert's modified version.

Jeff