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Re: ink transfer from PZ cut
Board: Stamp Carving and Mounting
Reply to: #2103 by Don and Gwen
Feb 3, 2005 11:55am
Thread (disabled) Board
I don't usually carve on PZ cut, but I do use Crayola markers. I also frequently use a stamp pad though and it also seems to print the same as the crayolas. I think I would like to try nicer markers. Does anyone have a suggestion for markers they like.
Re: ink transfer from PZ cut
Board: Stamp Carving and Mounting
Reply to: #2109 by System
Feb 3, 2005 4:52pm
Thread (disabled) Board
I had been using the Crayola markers and felt they were ok but seemed to leave a lot of "skippers". Then some friends recommended Marvy Le Plume markers and I cannot believe the difference. They are sold at our AC Moore and Michaels and I am now the proud owner of several different sets of these, purchased with the 40 and 50% coupons each of these stores puts into our papers. They are dual tipped, one end has a brush point and the other has a fine tip that has eliminated my need to carry a pen. The stamps look great with a color coordinated marker to write in all of the details. They come in 108 different colors and can also be purchased separately.
Jan of Team Little Dog
Re: ink transfer from PZ cut
Board: Stamp Carving and Mounting
Reply to: #2103 by Don and Gwen
Feb 3, 2005 7:53pm
Thread (disabled) Board
Quote You might be using the wrong side.


What is the right side??

Scarab
Re: ink transfer from PZ cut
Board: Stamp Carving and Mounting
Reply to: #2118 by Scarab
Feb 4, 2005 9:22am
Thread (disabled) Board
Quote You might be using the wrong side.

What is the right side??

Scarab


PZ Kut has a good side and a bad side. #A is usually marked with a blue dot. If you go to www.stampeaz.com you can check out carving tips and information. There are specifics on how to recognize which side is which. The acetone technique is not mentioned there, as far as I know, but I have found that scrubbing the PZ Kut with a paper towel that has some acetone on it helps the surface of the stamp.
An acetone scrub can be useful in transfering images also. Rather than using a Q Tip wetted with acetone on the paper, I use a scrubbing technique then immediately put the paper with the image from a printer on the PZ Kut and go over it like it was a pencil transfer. The scrubbing technique leaves the surface a little softer/gummier and if you have the right type of printer, the image will be transferred.
Hope this helps.
Don
Re: ink transfer from PZ cut
Board: Stamp Carving and Mounting
Reply to: #2126 by Don and Gwen
Feb 4, 2005 1:10pm
Thread (disabled) Board
It is interesting for me to hear you say this about the PZ Kut since I've always felt I had good results with them. I did have one LB I found that I wanted to do in multiple colors but I forgot my Marvy markers or my bag of pads, so I ran to the store and bought the only thing they had-Crayolas. On that stamp the ink was not consistent if I wanted it dark. It came out blotchy. I ended up loving it though b/c the stamp is of Mr. Potatohead and it made him look like a real potato with bumps. I wouldn't use crayolas again though unless I wanted it spotty.

I haven't ever sanded my medium, but I am also checking and rechecking my stamps often as I carve them. I think the process of repeatedly stamping in and cleaning them well before sending them on to the letterboxing world may help somewhat with them taking ink. I felt the same way about the pink stuff. I haven't really carved much with mastercarve since I do enough carving to make that be out of my social worker's budget arena. I have to agree though with the statement that Mastercarve seems to bleed a bit and become a little soft for my taste given time--even if it is nice during initial carving.

It has actually been a fairly new thing for me to hear of this technique of transferring the images that Don is talking about. I also read that somewhere else earlier this week. I started by rubbing the back of paper like most of the websites say to and found that my results were so inconsistent (using any medium) and I often ended up with ink missing in spots and a light film of paper from rubbing too much that interfered with detailed carving. If I rubbed off the paper residue, it would pull the ink off with it. I quit in frustration and use mostly ironing now. It took playing around with my timing to get the iron to work well for me. If I wait too long to take the paper off or iron it too many times, it doesn't want to cooperate. I may try your way of doing it Don--that and I'm curious about the blending pens when I get my inkjet fixed. For now I use the laser printer or copy machine at work.